Woah! So many blog posts in one week! … and there’s still more to come! I’m on stage 3 of my ‘Jeans Journey’ and my early morning sewing session was dedicated to assembling the front pockets of my denim shorts.
I’ll dive straight in… The pocket bags need assembling before attaching to the fronts: Prepare the pocket facings by either serging/ overlocking the curved edge (or if you don’t have an overlocker you can do this: stitch a line just inside the seam line and snip out some notches up-to the line, press the seams over and pin them.)
Sew the facings to the pocket lining. I want to see the giraffes on the pockets when I look into my jeans, so I’m sewing the facing to the wrong sides of the pocket linings. The choice is yours!
Get the coin pocket ready by sewing over the top fold (to the wrong side) then turning through and double topstitching the top opening…
Press the seams over and pin it in place on the right hand side pocket lining. Stitch it down with topstitching thread.
Once they are ready pin the pocket linings to the jeans front pieces along the curve. Put the inside of the lining piece face down onto the right side of the jeans front. (Remember I’d already interfaced the openings in session 1 – I’m not sure this is really necessary with jeans, but it can’t hurt, so I did it anyway)
Sew the pockets on along the curve. With that done, I trim the seams right back with pinking shears. This trims the seams and notches the curve at the same time. As you press it over to the inside, roll the seam a little further to ensure the lining won’t be seen from the front.
Double topstitch it from the front, once close to the edge of the curve, then again about 1cm away from that (magically concealing the raw edges between the topstitching).
You could just sew up the bottom of the pocket now and overlock or zigzag it. But if you want to French seam them, it goes like this: Flip the pocket lining up so that the outsides face each other…
Sew at 5mm…
Turn it through, press and sew again at 1cm.
Baste the loose edges of the pockets to the trouser fronts. Lift the pocket opening up a bit so that you’ve got space to put your hand in once they’re on.
The topstitching came out a bit tight in a few places, but overall I’m really pleased with this session. The front pockets are on and looking good. Next time I’ll tackle the fly.
(Stand by for a gratuitous photo of my ‘feature’ back pocket that otherwise would have (sadly) not been in this post!)
Notes to self:
- Still not convinced about this topstitching thread. I’ve just used a double thread before and it’s caught and snagged less…?
- I could understitch the curved pocket seam allowance by pressing the seams up towards the lining and sewing the allowance and lining together close to the seam – this will help keep the lining inside at the pocket edge – maybe use a discreet thread colour for this…?
- Don’t forget to loosen the pocket before basting.