Hello again. I had a couple of hours to myself after work to press-on with my denim shorts, so I’m back with part 2 of my ‘Jean Journey’.
If you missed the first part (where I made an awesome back pocket!) you can catch up Here. Today I’m finishing the backs by attaching the yokes and finishing the seat seam.
I usually mock-flat-fell my jeans-seams. I’m sure you’ve all seen/ done it, where you sew the seam as normal, right sides together, overlock or zigzag the raw edges then double topstitch the seams down from the right side. I LOVE this method. It’s neat, clean, tidy and, pretty much fool-proof. Sadly, it also seems to be frowned upon by purists. Here’s what I think…
If you can make jeans (by any method available) then pat yourself on the back and wear them with pride. You are MARVELLOUS. Suggesting certain garments aren’t ‘proper’ or judging other sewists by their seam finishes is not cool. However, that said, flat felled seams do look nice.
So the big thing to remember is that you need to pin the yokes to the back pieces wrong sides together. Stitch with the yoke underneath so that the topstitching thread is on the right side (the back piece) once the seams are pressed up.
(turn them over before stitching!)
Press so that the yoke seam is poking out and trim it back to 5mm.
Next, open up the yoke and press the seams upwards. Use a bit of starch if you like and carefully fold the raw edge under and press in place. (You should be folding the edge under by 5mm to butt up to the trimmed allowance – I cheated here and tucked it almost right into the crease. This will create a narrower seam, so watch out it doesn’t get too skinny… you could always draft 2cm seams to give you a clean 1cm fold, but this gets pretty bulky – my machine struggled a bit with this denim, it’s thicker than I’ve used before.)
Pin the seam in place and topstitch down, close to the edge.
To finish up the back pieces, you just need to join them together. I’ve decided to flat-fell again.
It’s the same process, just a little trickier as it’s on a curve.
Sew the first seam with the back right leg uppermost to keep the stitching on the correct side. Press carefully and slowly (don’t burn your fingers) then trim, fold, pin & stitch as before.
I usually use an open-toe sewing foot and shift the needle over as close to the edge as I dare.
With a bit of luck all the seams line up. If not you’ve got two options… unpick it and do it all again, or ignore it; comfortable in the fact that these discrepancies will only show up in blog photos and not in real life!
I’m going for the second option!
There’s a few issues in there, but I’m happy with how they’ve turned out.
That’s the backs done for now. Next time I get a chance at the machine I’ll be doing the front pockets. See you then!
Notes to self:
- I’m not sure how much I like the topstitching thread, or rather how much my machine likes it… but I’m pretty sure my machine is (over-) due a service and doesn’t like anyone much for now…
- I’ve got one of those mini-irons – I must remember to get it out for flat felling, I’m sure I’d burn my fingers less…?
- Sew the backs with the yokes underneath.
- Sew the seat with the right-back leg on top.
- Trim any frays off the longer seam allowance before folding it in.
- Make a note of your stitch settings and remember to refer to it!
- Get them finished in time for London Pride!