Hello again. I had a couple of hours to myself after work to press-on with my denim shorts, so I’m back with part 2 of my ‘Jean Journey’.
If you missed the first part (where I made an awesome back pocket!) you can catch up Here. Today I’m finishing the backs by attaching the yokes and finishing the seat seam.
I usually mock-flat-fell my jeans-seams. I’m sure you’ve all seen/ done it, where you sew the seam as normal, right sides together, overlock or zigzag the raw edges then double topstitch the seams down from the right side. I LOVE this method. It’s neat, clean, tidy and, pretty much fool-proof. Sadly, it also seems to be frowned upon by purists. Here’s what I think…
If you can make jeans (by any method available) then pat yourself on the back and wear them with pride. You are MARVELLOUS. Suggesting certain garments aren’t ‘proper’ or judging other sewists by their seam finishes is not cool. However, that said, flat felled seams do look nice.
So the big thing to remember is that you need to pin the yokes to the back pieces wrong sides together. Stitch with the yoke underneath so that the topstitching thread is on the right side (the back piece) once the seams are pressed up.
(turn them over before stitching!)
Press so that the yoke seam is poking out and trim it back to 5mm.
Next, open up the yoke and press the seams upwards. Use a bit of starch if you like and carefully fold the raw edge under and press in place. (You should be folding the edge under by 5mm to butt up to the trimmed allowance – I cheated here and tucked it almost right into the crease. This will create a narrower seam, so watch out it doesn’t get too skinny… you could always draft 2cm seams to give you a clean 1cm fold, but this gets pretty bulky – my machine struggled a bit with this denim, it’s thicker than I’ve used before.)
Pin the seam in place and topstitch down, close to the edge.
To finish up the back pieces, you just need to join them together. I’ve decided to flat-fell again.
It’s the same process, just a little trickier as it’s on a curve.
Sew the first seam with the back right leg uppermost to keep the stitching on the correct side. Press carefully and slowly (don’t burn your fingers) then trim, fold, pin & stitch as before.
I usually use an open-toe sewing foot and shift the needle over as close to the edge as I dare.
With a bit of luck all the seams line up. If not you’ve got two options… unpick it and do it all again, or ignore it; comfortable in the fact that these discrepancies will only show up in blog photos and not in real life!
I’m going for the second option!
There’s a few issues in there, but I’m happy with how they’ve turned out.
That’s the backs done for now. Next time I get a chance at the machine I’ll be doing the front pockets. See you then!
Happy Sewing!
Notes to self:
- I’m not sure how much I like the topstitching thread, or rather how much my machine likes it… but I’m pretty sure my machine is (over-) due a service and doesn’t like anyone much for now…
- I’ve got one of those mini-irons – I must remember to get it out for flat felling, I’m sure I’d burn my fingers less…?
Remember…
- Sew the backs with the yokes underneath.
- Sew the seat with the right-back leg on top.
- Trim any frays off the longer seam allowance before folding it in.
- Make a note of your stitch settings and remember to refer to it!
- Get them finished in time for London Pride!
I’m just curious about the machine that you used to make your jeans. I find that the machines of today have no “backbone” because of their plastic shell and gears inside. My 70 year old Singer 99 sews denim seams without a whimper!
I’ve got a janome dks 30 – it’s pretty good with heavy fabric. Yes, those old singers will sew through wood if you let them!
Great tutorial! I may have used these before… it’s so hard to remember! 🙂 I’m with you on the snobbery – I generally find the sewing community to be a friendly, sensible bunch, but there’s always one or two, eh? Have fun at the after party! 🙂
I did them ages ago with the thread theory trousers but not done it since! It’s nice if the fabric is not too fray-ey… 😂
Thank you 😊🙏👍
Flat fell seams are nice!! I like them. Pooh to the critics. These are looking so nice. You are tempting me to try jeans!
You should try them 👍 lots of topstitching and great techniques, it’s fun!
Did you use topstitch thread in both the needle and the bobbin? I tend to use it just in the needle. Susie x
Hi, no, just the needle 👍
Another lovely tutorial Andrew. These jeans are shaping up to be outstanding and you will wear them to Pride with pride!
Thank you 🙏 annoyingly I’m working during the march, but it’s not far to soho for the after party! 🌈👍🙏🥂
Looking fantastic 😉 I tend to redraw/trim my seam allowances at the cutting out stage. Then I mark the opposite pattern piece with a series of little dots to line up the raw edge to before sewing the first line of stitching. It takes a little extra time that way but it means you don’t have to do all the fiddly seam trimming some stitched.. I’m rubbish at that even with duck billed scissors :/ You could even pre-iron along the line of dots too which might save the finger burns 😛
If you find a good way of flat felling curves like sleeve heads on shirts let me know. Other than trying out the ‘ease stitch plus’ along the line of dots before hand (haven’t tried it yet) I can’t find a way to make it nice and neat 🙁
Lainey x
Thanks, pre ironing sounds like a good idea… anything to save my fingers!!!
I’ve never tried flatfelling a sleeve seam… if I’m not overlocking it, I French seam it instead… I don’t think my fingers could take the heat!! 🤣🤣🙏
Done it once … and regretted it almost instantly! lol It’s on my ‘I will master this technique’ list 😀
I think Prym make some silicon finger protectors for fingertips especially for ironing but I imagine they would be really annoying and stop you manipulating the fabric as easily. Maybe you could use a stiletto tool or you brad to hold fabric in place while you iron it? 🙂
Once, I did French seams on the outside (by mistake!) And stitched them down… they looked just like flat felled! 😂😅🤷♂️