No, I’m not getting married again! I offered to make my friends waistcoat for his wedding. (You can read all about when I made MrA’s & my wedding waistcoats HERE)
Thankfully waistcoats don’t take too long as I hadn’t left myself very much time…
Four weeks before the wedding, I went through my waistcoat patterns (can you believe I have FIVE!!!) and chose Simplicity 2741. I chose this one because it didn’t have a collar, was fully lined and had some nice shaping at the front & back. The welts are fake too. I wasn’t scrimping my friend, honestly! I wanted to make it out of really nice fabric so didn’t want any tricky manoeuvres to scupper me along the way.
So, one rainy afternoon, I decided to make a first draft. I made it wearable, out of denim and a bit of left over shirting. I made it using the grooms chest and waist measurements and (apart from buttons) finished it off fully… If it doesn’t fit him, it’ll fit me!
For speed, I didn’t line it. I zigzagged the edges, folded the 1.5cm seam allowance and topstiched.
- make it longer (by 6.5cm)
- Pinch 2cm (1 each side) from the neck tapering to nothing at the shoulder, to accommodate non sloping shoulders.
- Shorten the Buckle carrying section of the ‘tie back’ by 3cm.
That shouldn’t be too tricky. Time to clear the decks and get my pencils out again…
In the meantime, MrA & I had another wedding to go to, so I sharpened up my waistcoat skills and made us one each, as well as trousers each, and a shirt for me. I let MrA pick his own fabric, he chose this ‘black and white tartan?’ From the sale table outside Ditto Fabrics. I’m not very practised at matching checks, so I knew this would be a bit of a trial for me. I really knuckled down and I’m so pleased with how the back pocket welts turned out…
Mine was blue linen and the shirt, a nice soft cotton (also from Ditto). I did the welt pockets on his waistcoat on the bias as they went over a dart. The waistcoats are a mash-up between simplicity 2741 and burda 7799. MrA’s trousers are lengthened from the burda magazine shorts I made HERE. My trousers are a new cut (went down a size- successfully!) on Thread Theory Jededdiah Pants.
After my recent success with Crayola ultra washable pens (on my PIN-TUCK SHIRT) I used the grey one to mark MrA’s notched collar/ welts etc. I sent them to the dry cleaners as I was afraid of the interfacing coming away in the washing machine. Sadly, dry cleaning was no match for my grey pen, and a second go by the cleaners even turned some of the marks an interesting shade of orange. The same happened to my shirt. I put the shirt in the wash (30°) and the pen came clean out. Lesson learnt: only use the pens on machine washable garments, otherwise; chalk. Humph!
Anyway, back on with the Grooms waistcoat. His surname is Romanian for Peacock. So, inspired by our WEDDING WAISTCOATS, MrPeacock wanted a patterned back and a plain silk front.
This was the perfect time to use the Liberty lawn ‘scrap’ (ha!) I had left from our WEDDING QUILT. Just enough for the back, but no room for pattern matching.
The assistant in Maculloch and Wallis was really helpful and I got some Dupion Silk in Teal (I ordered it and it arrived in just two days) to match the background colour from the Liberty fabric and I used a dusty grey/ green/ blue lining I had already (from the bottomless fabric haul of LadyP). In Kleins, I picked up a matching silk thread too.
High on the success of mine & MrA’s waistcoats, I decided to add a notched collar and make the two welt pockets fully operable. As the pattern is a mash-up, here’s the order I made it in…
- Cut outers, linings, pockets, collars & interfacing.
- Interface fronts, welts, 1 of each collar.
- Sew front darts, lining & outer. Press to front.
- Make collar, clip, turn, topstitch. Baste to fronts.
- Attach welts and pocket facing. Clip, turn through & press. Attach pocket bags to bottom welt & facing. Sew ‘triangles’ down. Sew up sides.
Here’s a funny little drawing which may (or may not) explain my ‘quick & sturdy’ welt method for waistcoats and trousers…
- Sew backs together, outer then lining. Press seams open.
- Make back ties, position & sew to back. Sew on buckle.
- Sew together at shoulder seams, outer then lining. Press seams open.
So now I have an outer and a lining, it’s time to join them together. I lay the outer, face-up, on the floor. Then I lay the lining, face-down, on top of it. Here’s another funny little drawing which may (or may not) explain how I sew it together, turn it, sew up the outer sides, then stitch in the ditch to secure the lining…
- Topstitch from under the collar, all the way around to under the collar on the other side.
- Mark & sew the buttonholes.
- Cut the buttonholes.
- Cover 5 buttons (I got the easy snap metal type from Kleins).
- Mark & sew the buttons on.
And with the buttons…
Notes to self:
- The more expensive the fabric, the nicer it is to sew with. Fact! Haha!
- Silk thread is nice to sew with too!
- Don’t exclude ‘extras’ in fear of mucking them up: practice them.
- Always make sure you have enough buttons before starting a project.
- Only use chalk to mark dry-clean garments.