I’m back with the second instalment of my new raincoat – in the first post I adapted the patch pockets into 3D pockets and added magnetic closures, you can catch up with that HERE (if you want to!). I’m using the ‘Harry’ duffel coat pattern from La Maison Victor and I’m making quite a few modifications, not because it is a bad pattern – far from it – but because I’m not making a duffel coat… I’m making a rain coat, for the winter. so I need it to be rain proof, warm and have all the right pockets! I mentioned in the last post how (without buying swatches) the colours of the fabrics I chose were a bit of a surprise – now it’s time to reveal my hi-viz lining! In this post I’m documenting how I drafted the lining for this unlined pattern…
Creating a lining…
The pattern isn’t drafted with a lining, so I had a bit of tinkering to do. For the backs I could use the regular back piece but needed it shorter to accommodate the larger turnback of the outer hem. As the patterns are not printed with seam allowances I have both the sewing line and the cutting line visible on my traced pattern pieces. I prepared the back pattern piece by folding it at the hemline. Then I traced around the original piece, following the sewing line of the folded piece at the bottom. As this bottom line is where the fabrics will meet, I add seam allowance to the bottom of the new back lining piece.
Now, it’s a wise idea to put a pleat in the centre of the back lining for a little wiggle room… If you’ve forgotten to draft that before cutting out your fabric (like I have!) you can make up for it by taking a smaller seam allowance along the centre back seam of the lining, just an inch or so down from the top to somewhere below the hip, this should give you the breathing space you need.
The fronts were just a little bit trickier. I fold the hem up at the bottom of the front pattern piece, then I lay the facing piece in position on top of it. Now, I can trace a pattern piece for a front lining which takes into account the front facing and the depth of the hem. Trace the inner stitching line of the front facing (then add seam allowance to it) Trace the shoulder, neck, underarm and side as the original. Lastly, trace the sewing line of the turned back hem allowance at the bottom, remember to add a seam allowance to this and you’ve got yourself a lining pattern.
Using the lining as a toile…
When I checked my measurements, I was pushing too far on the ‘M’ measurements to not go with the ‘L’. And, of course it’s always easier to adjust smaller than bigger. Rather than make a muslin or toile, I decided to make the lining first, fit that, and then transfer any adjustments from there to the main pattern. I cut out the facings from my outer fabric, the fronts and backs from quilted orange. After stitching them together and trying it on I was pleased that it fit, surprised it wasn’t bigger, but I forget that the LMV patterns do not have much ease (… is that it…?! maybe…?!) but nevertheless, I was happy with the fit. I knew the fabric would take up a bit of extra space, and it seemed like I was getting away with it. It’s always best to size up on a coat if you’re using thicker material than the pattern suggests.
The green fabric is rubber backed (or something!) and is really quite sticky, the orange is quite thick (as it’s pre-quilted) and apart from the fact that it has absolutely no give at all, it’s pretty easy to sew with. If you’re working with different fabrics like this, I find it best to have the stickiest side uppermost, against the walking foot (IDT or otherwise!) – and the less sticky fabric underneath, on the feed dogs. Sew slowly and support the fabric from the front and back through the machine to maintain an even stitch.
I’m using a size 90 needle and my stitch length is a little longer than usual at 3mm.
I did the same thing with the hood pieces as I did with the fronts and backs – I drafted new lining pieces using the original pieces and the facing as a template. The pattern is a two piece hood, with a seam going from ear to ear providing the shape. I’d not tried this before, but was willing to give it a go. I sewed it together and … it looks terrible! Like a weird Druid/ mushroom hood! It also feels like it won’t give much coverage, or stay up in the wind…
… so there was nothing left to do other than draft the hood myself… but that’s for another day!
Until next time,
Notes to self:
- Remember to add ease to the centre back lining
- Size up a bit if you’ve got a thick padded lining
- Always keep a pencil sharpener handy when you’re drafting!
- It’s probably better to test for all these modifications before starting… but hey, where’s the fun in that?!
So beautiful raincoat pattern. I like .
I like the hood. Maybe just add a casing and a drawstring to combat the wind ?
Thank you 🙏 I can’t get the mushroom-y ness out of my mind now though 😅
Wow what a lining looks so bold and will no doubt offer warmth. Adding a coat lining for me is something I struggle with for some reason even if the pattern has it, looks like you have mastered it well done, coming together great .
I struggle with coat linings too – it’s been a while since I’ve done one now so I’m hoping this one goes well 🙏