Hi Sewists,
Here’s a little technique that I’m pleased I got my head round…
A while back I wanted to add a secret in-seam pocket to the waistline of a pair of trousers – just big enough for a note, a card & a key – Well, my patience was obviously thin that day as I tried to work out the logistics of it… I gave up pretty quickly and decided it was impossible!
However long later, here I was about to make these new trousers. I’d got this lovely gabardine from Maculloch & Wallis (with a little bit of stretch!) – as it’s so soft I decided to cut all the pieces from the main fabric. No fancy pocket linings, no contrast welts, not even a jazzy fly or waistband facing… What was I thinking… how dull is that?!
To ‘spice-up-the-sew’ a bit, I resolved to tackle that pocket again… and, after all these years, it turns out it’s not much more than a ‘simple’ regular in-seam pocket… how about that! Here’s how I did it…
The pattern is the ‘Cheeky Chinos’ from Les BG (first made here as shorts – They’re a tiny bit on the snug side but I made no adjustments as this fabric has stretch) all assembled bar the waistband. The belt loops have been basted to the chinos.
I started by cutting two pocket pieces. I drew round a credit card and added ease & seam allowance. To check they matched up I pinned the first piece in position to the chino right-front, then pinned the outer waistband in place, matching up the second pocket piece.
Next, I stitched the pocket bags in place and pressed them upwards, away from the waist seam line.
… once you’ve done this it might be an idea to finish the seams, just behind the new pocket on the waistband piece – it won’t show and shouldn’t unravel, but if you’re concerned about your fabric, do it now – it’s hard to get at later!
Now it’s time to sew the outer waistband and pocket in one go – sew the waist seam as normal, stop when you reach the seam allowance of the pocket. Pivot and stitch around the pocket, stop when you reach the waist stitch line and pivot again to finish the waist seam.
Clip into the corners and finish the seams on the pocket bag. (I’ve pinked the waist seam here but later on I snipped a bit further and tucked that seam into the waistband.) I pressed the seams away from the chinos…
… then pressed the waistband up and the pocket down…
Feeling pretty pleased with myself, I pinned the waistband facing onto the waistband… as I have learned – pride comes before a fall – the keen eyed among you will see what I mean…
… so after pinning the waistband facing to the wrong side of the outer band, I unpinned it and pinned it again, this time to the right side of the outer band! Then I could stitch along the top (long edge) and the sides (short edges).
When I sew the short edges, I fold the corner of the facing away so that it doesn’t interfere with the zip or peek through later on.
After turning the waistband right side out, I pin it in place, ready for stitching. As a reminder, I place two pins at the edges of my pocket.
Using the stitch-in-the-ditch foot I sew from the front as normal. When I get to the pocket, I carefully manipulate the chino front out of the way.
Although I wouldn’t recommend keeping a seam ripper in there, it was the closest thing I had to hand. (After somehow slipping out of the ditch and having to re sew some of the waistband!)
To finish up, some topstitching, the belt loops and the button (& buttonhole) – all went smoothly, but I won’t get into that now.
Although I’m still totally in love with my suede chore jacket, the colour does make a nice change from denim and blue – I’m really pleased with how well they go with my new fern shirt (fabric bought for last summer, started before Christmas and finished this spring!) and my ‘mud grey’ SneakerKit sneakers…
The weather has been great lately, but, of course, the 20 minutes I spent on the terrace was the 20 minutes that the sun went in! Still, I managed to grab a couple of photos.
Since my Mum’s been making ‘Franken-socks’ out of her leftovers, I had a bit of a struggle finding the matching pair…!
… but I found them in the end…!
Stay safe & keep sewing!
Andrew
Notes to self:
- Keep the bits cut from the hem to mark the pattern pieces – save a bit of fabric next time.
- Start pre-washing the stretch denim!
- When you get back to work, wear your apron!
Secret pockets are right up there with secret doors – very cool! You’re very clever to make it too small to stuff with too many goodies – which would make it a bit “unsecret”. I would say I’m going to try this, but then everyone would know I have a secret pocket! 😎
Thank you! Would you believe I also have a secret door! 😱🤩👍🏻
How lovely you have a secret door! (Not so secret now lol…) My grandmother had one, and the stair behind it led to a magical place with sewing machines, notions, and fabric.
Ouuh thank you for the super comprehensive tutorial!! I keep seeing waistband-inseam pockets around (I think they’re part of the Persephony pants for example?) and had always wondered how they worked – thanks for making such an easy to follow tutorial, I’ll have to try it sometime! But the thing that really blew my mind and compelled me to comment: YOU FOLD THE CORNER OF YOUR WAISTBAND FACING UP WHEN SEWING THE FRONT CORNERS??? That is such a brilliant idea!?!?!!! I never manage to catch them when stitching in the ditch and then have to tack them by hand – this has given me endless frustrations! THANK YOU for the smart sollution – consider it immeaditely adopted 😀 All the best to you and yours!
Wow, thanks Lisa 🙏🏻 I’m so glad it helped 👍🏻 All the best to you too 👍🏻
The little pocket is just brilliant. Thanks for the tutorial.
You’re welcome! I’m glad I finally worked it out! 😆👍🏻🙏🏻
These are so stylish and the fit is fabulous. That pocket is such a great idea, I might have to adopt it!
Thank you! Now I’ve got my head around it I think they’ll be popping up everywhere!
These look great on and fit a treat ideal for the coming seasons. Must look up the shop you bought the fabric as I do not have fabric shops for miles so have to use online.
Thank you. They feel great too. It’s a good shop, lucky for me it’s local, but they have online 👍🏻
All the best,
A
Best looking pant you have ever made, they are sliming, well fitting and i hope with the bit of stretch in your fabric (3% lycra) very comfortable. Now you are ready for a big pub lunch and won’t have to worrry about your pants cutting you off!!
Haha, thank you 👍🏻 I got to tap dance in them today & they were very comfy 👏🏻
Well i hope you use more better quality fabric and fabric with stretch, i love 5% lycra in my fabric, it makes pants and jackets so comfortable, especially if you are active. The place you sourced the fabric from has some very very nice fabric. My favorite fabric these is bengaline (poly, rayon, spandex mix) its easy to wear, moves and gives on your body and you can wash it the machine, no dry cleaning. The reason i suggest you purchasing pricey fabric, since your skills at sewing are good and you put a lot of time in making well made clothing, all this goes out the window if you use ‘cheap looking bargin fabric’