I’m so pleased to share this cardigan with you! I made it a couple of weeks ago – in a burst of making – and have been trying to keep it under wraps rather than blurt everything out at once! You may have seen it creeping onto my Instagram feed lately, but here it is in all its glory!
Ages ago I’d bought this lovely jersey from one of the fabric shops on Goldhawk Road (I got the fabric for these joggers at the same time). It’s thick and warm and I couldn’t settle on what to make of it, until now. It’s time for another Camil Cardigan from the La Maison Victor menswear magazine (click Here to see the last one I made) and it’s perfectly in time for the #CosyCardiChallenge by Nikki Amanda and Rachel over on Instagram. This time I made a few more modifications…
The pattern isn’t drafted with pockets but I knew I definitely wanted pockets on this one. Welt pockets at that. Two main ones and another at the top of the left front.
So I found some iron on interfacing scraps and cut out some rectangles. The two main pockets were to be 15cm across and the top one 10cm.
On the main ones, I wanted to minimise the bulk so I drafted the welt at the bottom of the fabric piece: it’s 18cm wide, I measured up 1.5cm for seam allowance. Then 3cm (for a 1.5cm welt), then drew a 1.5cm x 15cm box on top of that. The remaining length is the same as from the pocket to the hem (although I cut it a bit longer just to be on the safe side!)
I drew a corresponding box onto the front pieces (15cm x 1.5cm) where I had also interfaced the reverse side.
I matched everything up with pins and sewed around the box – with the welt piece right-sides facing with the front. (I used a regular straight stitch to construct the pockets, switching to a 2x2mm zigzag on the main seams, cuffs and hem.)
Then it’s time to snip through. Always remember- Up-to but not into your stitching!
Now, this was all pretty hefty work, but I kept the walking foot on and stuck to a medium speed throughout this project. Anyway, once you’ve cut through, push it all through to the inside and make it look as neat as possible. I folded and secured my welt to the lower seam of the box…
But then I edgestitched it from the front, so maybe that awkward seam wasn’t necessary…? Either way, it can only make it stronger. So, with the flap well out of the way, sew the welt just under the bottom…
… then mark up and sew from the hem, up the side of the welt, turn at the corner, across the top and down the other side. This keeps the pocket facing in place and holds everything in place at the back.
I did the one at the top left in the same way, but made it only 10cm wide with a 1cm welt. I didn’t use the main jersey inside this pocket though, I lined it instead with a bit of tshirt jersey.
Then I had a brainwave. I wanted this cardigan to be really warm – I mean really warm! And I remembered I’d bought some cheap faux sheepskin ages ago online. I thought I was going to make some really cool pilot/ flying jacket, but when it arrived, MrA said ‘… oh, are you making teddy-bears?’ so it’s just sat there (taking up SO MUCH space!) Well, not anymore! I had just the right amount to line the body of my cardigan, so that’s what I did.
This really upped the thickness of the thing and I would have never made it without the walking foot firmly in place. I didn’t fully line it. I think it’s called ‘underlining’ where you keep the right sides facing outwards and sew the outer and lining together as one piece. Of course, this meant I had to deal with the inside seams: I’d imagined I’d simply run it through the overlocker, it was happy enough on the sleeves where it was just the jersey but it was just too big an ask to get over two layers of jersey and another two of teddy bear! Onto Plan B: trimmed right back to a wobbly zigzag!
I had a bit of pre made ribbed cuffing that I’d bought ages ago in Kleins. Not long enough to fit the waist and the cuffs: so I pieced the waistband to use the ribbing at the front and the regular jersey at the back. I used my modified collar piece from the last time I made this – but instead of overlocking the inside seam, I turned it under and caught it ‘in-the-ditch’ from the right side.
The whole thing is so weighty and thick that I can’t even fit the band under my machine! So I slipped off to DM Buttons (more on them here!) to get some professional holes made. Caught up in the fun of it all there, I went all-out and got buttonholes made on the pockets too.
The buttons were bought on a trip to France a couple of years ago. They were meant to go onto my Goldstream Peacoat, but I didn’t buy enough. They turned out to be the perfect button to elevate this casual cosy cardi into a smart/casual cosy cardi!
… except the button looks too big for the top pocket. It looks more like a badge or a medal! I’ve switched it out for a plain, smaller silver one for now, and will keep an eye out for the perfect button in the future!
I took it with me on my recent trip to venice, but even though it rained buckets and the tides rose up to our knees in the middle of the city, it was a bit warm for it. Here I am coming through St Mark’s Square as the tides are subsiding: I’m all dolled-up in my ‘Gene Kelly’ waistcoat from my Refashioners outfit, with my favourite new cardigan casually slung over my gammy arm…
Then I managed to get some half decent shots up against this jolly wall (just around the corner from my flat! … I think you might be seeing a bit more of this wall!)
It’s definitely been cold enough for it here in London. Also, I had some great news recently – it looks like MrA & I will be able to visit our family in Vermont USA this thanksgiving! We’re so excited, we’re hoping to have a very brief stop in New York on the way too. This should help to keep me warm while we’re there!
Notes to self;
- I’ve got a bit of leftover faux fur which might make a nice detachable collar for this…?
- I must trace out the roll-collar if I’m going to make another one.
- Unlike the last one, I sewed the unnotched collar edges together this time, this turned out better without the whole roll collar… duh 🙄