Hey Sewists!
Here I am with a checked shirt… but this one has a twist!
This shirt is actually making up part of my #TheRefashioners2018 look, although it’s not actually been refashioned – that’s why I’m blogging it separately.
You see, I needed a shirt to complete the look, but I didn’t see the point in making a shirt I didn’t really want to wear just for the sake of accuracy. I also couldn’t find a fabric that would fit the brief so I decided to use some shirting I already had in my stash and was desperate to use.
I’m not going to reveal my #InspiredBy (this years Refashioners theme) image yet, but I’ll tell you that the ‘inspiration’ shirt is a green and white candy stripe (there should be a prize if anyone can guess it from that…! But I’m afraid there’s not!). So to make my checked shirt a little more ‘jazzy’ I decided to cut all the main pieces on the bias grain and the detail pieces on the straight grain, rather than the other way around. Not only would this add more visual interest to the check but also allow the shirt to hang differently… dare I say even, luxuriously…? We’ll see!
I’m sticking with my tried and tested shirt pattern -Simplicity 8427. It’s a good fit; comfortable without being too full, with a few options for cuffs and collars. One of the things I really like about this pattern is, it has a nice deep yoke making it much easier to roll up into a burrito. I love this technique and have covered it more in-depth here.
As all the main pieces are cut on the cross grain there’s more scope for the pieces to stretch out of shape. I probably should have staystitched* every pattern piece, but instead I used my ‘starch and minimal handling’ method (… still in its beta version! – This worked out ok, but I’d staystitch next time just to be on the safe side).
As it was coming together I was more and more pleased with the bias cut effect. The tower plackets worked out nicely too. (I should maybe do a blog post about those sometime…? I’ve got a few methods, literally ‘up my sleeve’ (… sorry, I had to do that!)
The left front (button-hole) placket was cut on grain and attached to the front. (Check out this post for a few button placket variations) And on the right-front I used the ‘fold-over‘ method. The collar actually sits pretty well although it could have done with a wiggle in this photo. I think I was too mesmerised by the way the pattern matched across the front!
The bias binding at the hem came to me from a vintage sewing box a friend bought at a car boot sale. And the buttons are from one of MrA’s old work shirts, so there is an element of refashioning going on here (… although, admittedly, not much!)
It’s fair to say that I LOVE this shirt! The effect of the check is totally different at this angle, I love the way the pocket really stands out and reminds you which way up you are standing! … it’s the sort of shirt that if you look at it for long enough, it’ll start to look back at you! Also, it really does feel different to wear. The bias cutting really does make it hang differently/ better…? And, dare I say, I believe it does feel somewhat luxurious! I can’t put my finger on exactly what it is, but I can feel it!
Are you joining in the Refashioners this year? Check out Portia Lawrie’s blog if you don’t know about it. There’s still time! And tune in next week for the big reveal!
Happy Sewing!
Notes to self:
- Do more shirt blogs!
- Remember to take photos of the process! (Duh… Blogging 101!!)
- Get in the habit of staystitching ALL the curved/ bias pieces.
- *Staystitching – a permanent row of stitching just inside the seam line of a pattern piece applied before construction.
Love your shirt! I must tell you that once you wear a bias cut garment you’re hooked! I became fascinated with the fit and feel after reading the book “Halston, An American Original” and started thinking of ways to apply some of his techniques in making menswear. I’ve made t-shirts and pullovers so far and love the drape and fluidity it gives to a garment! You done an excellent job controlling the stretch problems that can develop when making bias cut garments. Trust me……. you’ll be making many more bias cut things in the future!
Thank you, it’s fast become one of my favourites! 👍🙏
I’ve made loads of shirts for my husband and never cut one on the bias! Now I have to as I absolutely love this one.
I’ll bet he’ll love it too! 👍🙏😃
Wow Great job! I love all your details… perfect 🙂
Thank you 😊 I’m really pleased with it! 🙏👍
Wow! I really love this. I don’t make much in plaid, but I did make myself a shirt where I played around with the grain and it was proper fun 🙌🏻
Your shirt does look fabulous – those plackets are on point! 👌🏻 (although, I’m afraid, your ‘up my sleeve’ joke is not 🤣)
I might check out this shirt pattern for the husband and see how it works out – I recently bought a Japanese shirt book but am yet to look through it…
Good work on the bias tape hem too, you know I love a good taped hem 🤣
I’m not taking part in the refashioners… for some reason it doesn’t appeal to me, I prefer to make things from scratch 🤷🏻♀️
And I’ve got no idea about the green striped shirt… although for some reason all I can think of is Disney and the Grinch 🤣🤣🤣
Haha, I’ll leave the jokes to the comedians 😂🤣 and I’ll stick to shirts!
I love my Japanese pattern book, just be careful to check the measurements more than the sizes (especially length). I’m happy with the fit of this simplicity one straight from the pattern 👍
🤣🤣🤣 Yes, I’m making a Grinch costume for the refashioners! 🤪😂🤣 (… not really 😉🤦♂️)
Looking forward to hearing about New York! 👍🙏👏
Your pattern matching (it’s too well done to be luck), puts you in the big leagues.
The heft of the hem only helps the drape work its magic. You look as comfortable as you are stylish.
Thank you! I do feel great in it! 👍🙏😊😎
WOW!! Love everything about it! It really draws you in!
It stares back doesn’t it 🤪😉👍
I also look forward to the tower placket post!
I got my pin! It is now ensconced on my jacket collar point.
SUPER-cool shirt! I am impressed. Not surprised or anything — you are regularly impressive.
Currently in the middle of a massive overhaul of my sewing area. Sigh.
Thank you! I’m so glad the pin arrived safely 👍
Enjoy your new, tidy sewing space!
👍🙏😂
….once I get there… (sigh)
Nothing wrong with a good bit of bias. The BBC has been doing it for decades.
Lol!
The diagonals are so precise, it’s professional! I love the burrito – it’s like MAGIC! Tell us about your tower method now! Please! 🤗
Those diagonals were a little bit of effort and a whole lot of luck if I’m honest Linda!
I looked back over my blog and was surprised to see so few of them about shirts! Shirts are what I make most, so I feel like I blog them all the time! …. I definitely feel a ‘cuffs’ rant coming on…! 😉😂👍🙏😊
Wow, that really does look luxe! The pattern matching alone is worth price of admission but with the drape, I mean, wow!
Thank you! I must admit, I thought it ‘would be nice’ … but I didn’t realise it would be this nice! I love it! 👍🙏😊
Love the diagonal checks… I must try a bias shirt for one of my boys 😊 it looks really good.
As for your refashion.. 🤔.. Candy stripes… Mustard Yellow and burgundy fabric I think you had 🤔 Willy Wonka inspired frock coat maybe? 😁😂😂 Some kind of funky jacket🤔…. I give up!! What you making?????
Lainey x
Haha! I did think of Willy wonka… but I’d barely wear that outfit once a year 😅… or Prince in negative 🤔😂 … all will be revealed in time! 👍🙏😊
Love the diagonal checks… I must try a bias shirt for one of my boys 😊
As for your refashion.. 🤔.. Candy stripes… Mustard Yellow and burgundy fabric I think you had 🤔 Willy Wonka inspired frock coat maybe? 😁😂😂 Some kind of funky jacket🤔…. I give up!! What you making?????
Lainey x
The shirt looks amazing! I must check out this pattern now as I’ve been looking for a good men’s shirt pattern. Also, would like to know more of your tower placket method.
Thank you for the post, it was an interesting read. Have a nice weekend. 😀
Thanks for the encouragement, I’ll get on with that tower placket post!
👍🙏😊😃