Hello again. I’m still up against the clock to make as many pieces from Burda 6871 as I can before my nephews impending wedding. If you’d like to catch up, you can read about my plans Here. I’ve also completed the Waistcoat.
Next up is the trousers. I’ve made quite a few trousers since I started sewing. They’re somewhat of a staple in my wardrobe! But some time ago I found a pattern that I was so happy with, I stopped looking for any others. My ‘Simplicity Pattern Haul‘ has forced me out of my comfort zone and I’m so glad it has. I really like this trouser pattern.
The big difference is welt pockets in the back AND the front. The pattern is designated ‘Advanced’ and there are lots of subtleties in the drafting that gives each piece an extra edge. The curve at the front of the waistcoat felt very classy as I stitched around it, the pocket linings on the trousers extend to the waistband and front seams. (And, of course, there’s at least four welt pockets on EVERYTHING!)
After checking the finished hip measurement I stuck with the size 38 for the trousers. Again, quite a lot of pieces but, as I said, lots of nice features.
Cutting out wasn’t as tricky as with the waistcoat: I positioned the front welts to start on a stripe so the actual welt is plain. And the ones in the back don’t go through the dart, so I thought that would save me a headache later on.
After the sparseness of the waistcoat instructions, I am pleased to say that the instructions, photos and pattern markings for the trouser pockets were all really clear.
One thing I would add is that once you’ve sewn the welt and the lining in place, trim the seams right back so you don’t sew over them as you sew the facing on. (Pic 30a above).
It was almost midnight when I made these pockets, I’ll be honest, I’d had a couple of beers – I’d also had a lovely day out with one of my best friends… (a sewing day with her two gorgeous daughters; they made a couple of the Great British Sewing Bee kits for kids. They did fantastically, all by themselves! I just watched over them and encouraged them to read the instructions carefully and do everything in order. (Ironic). Look what they came up with…
… I couldn’t be a more proud Uncle*
* although not actually uncles to the girls, their parents always call MrA & I ‘The Boys’ so, adorably, the girls call us the ‘Uncle Boys’ … I know, it could melt your heart, right?) …but what I’m saying is that even after all that, as the hour approached midnight, I followed the instructions carefully and came up with these. As I’d lined them up with the stripe, it all (miraculously) came out according to plan…
On to the back pockets, starting with the darts. They’re pretty steep, so even though they do not intersect the pocket, there’s still a disruption in the pattern above the welt. They’re the same type as the ones in this illustration from ‘way back’…
The back welts matched better below than above, which is to be expected, I suppose.
Not perfect, but I’m giving myself a gold star for that (… the other one’s almost as nice!).
If I had a tip, so far, for welts, I suppose it’s to press the welt piece on its seam line. This way I could see more clearly where to position it and also I could follow the crease as my sewing line.
With all the pockets done it’s time to sew up the two separate legs. I overlocked the seams and pressed them to the back.
This bit needs documenting (for me at least…) With the LEFT LEG Inside Out – put the RIGHT LEG, Right Side Out, Inside the left. … It’s like a sewing haiku… almost… I might get it engraved in a ring…?
I finished the seams first and chose to understitch the fly front instead of topstitching it. On the right, I used the overlocked edge to help with the narrow fold back.
I even did some hand basting!
Next, the waistband. I chose not to put myself through the misery of attempting to turn through a 20cm long, 1cm wide tube for the belt loops; I folded them in twice and edgestitched like I usually do. Then I had the brainwave to use my button gauge to measure out five equal beltloops.
I remembered to fold the corner at the front of the waistband to keep all the #rainbowseams on the inside…
I must say, I’m really happy with them. The size feels spot on. The pockets feel really classy. I’m LOVING the feel of the fabric, it’s comfy & soft. The legs have a good taper, without overdoing it. And, I’ve got STRIPE JOY written all over them!
The really good news is that even though I’m not yet half-way through making this suit, I am now at least fully covered! Next stop: I need to get one of those jackets.
(And after tidying up a corner of the living room…)
Notes to self:
- Take it slow with the jacket. Spend the time tracing & measuring first.
- Some smart linen pants would be nice out of this pattern…
- Do I need to buy a better matching thread before I carry on with the jacket?
- Plain shirt or pattern shirt or plain shirt with pattern accents…? Hmmm