Hello again. I’m still up against the clock to make as many pieces from Burda 6871 as I can before my nephews impending wedding. If you’d like to catch up, you can read about my plans Here. I’ve also completed the Waistcoat.
Next up is the trousers. I’ve made quite a few trousers since I started sewing. They’re somewhat of a staple in my wardrobe! But some time ago I found a pattern that I was so happy with, I stopped looking for any others. My ‘Simplicity Pattern Haul‘ has forced me out of my comfort zone and I’m so glad it has. I really like this trouser pattern.
The big difference is welt pockets in the back AND the front. The pattern is designated ‘Advanced’ and there are lots of subtleties in the drafting that gives each piece an extra edge. The curve at the front of the waistcoat felt very classy as I stitched around it, the pocket linings on the trousers extend to the waistband and front seams. (And, of course, there’s at least four welt pockets on EVERYTHING!)
After checking the finished hip measurement I stuck with the size 38 for the trousers. Again, quite a lot of pieces but, as I said, lots of nice features.
Cutting out wasn’t as tricky as with the waistcoat: I positioned the front welts to start on a stripe so the actual welt is plain. And the ones in the back don’t go through the dart, so I thought that would save me a headache later on.
After the sparseness of the waistcoat instructions, I am pleased to say that the instructions, photos and pattern markings for the trouser pockets were all really clear.
One thing I would add is that once you’ve sewn the welt and the lining in place, trim the seams right back so you don’t sew over them as you sew the facing on. (Pic 30a above).
It was almost midnight when I made these pockets, I’ll be honest, I’d had a couple of beers – I’d also had a lovely day out with one of my best friends… (a sewing day with her two gorgeous daughters; they made a couple of the Great British Sewing Bee kits for kids. They did fantastically, all by themselves! I just watched over them and encouraged them to read the instructions carefully and do everything in order. (Ironic). Look what they came up with…
… I couldn’t be a more proud Uncle*
* although not actually uncles to the girls, their parents always call MrA & I ‘The Boys’ so, adorably, the girls call us the ‘Uncle Boys’ … I know, it could melt your heart, right?) …but what I’m saying is that even after all that, as the hour approached midnight, I followed the instructions carefully and came up with these. As I’d lined them up with the stripe, it all (miraculously) came out according to plan…
On to the back pockets, starting with the darts. They’re pretty steep, so even though they do not intersect the pocket, there’s still a disruption in the pattern above the welt. They’re the same type as the ones in this illustration from ‘way back’…
The back welts matched better below than above, which is to be expected, I suppose.
Not perfect, but I’m giving myself a gold star for that (… the other one’s almost as nice!).
If I had a tip, so far, for welts, I suppose it’s to press the welt piece on its seam line. This way I could see more clearly where to position it and also I could follow the crease as my sewing line.
With all the pockets done it’s time to sew up the two separate legs. I overlocked the seams and pressed them to the back.
This bit needs documenting (for me at least…) With the LEFT LEG Inside Out – put the RIGHT LEG, Right Side Out, Inside the left. … It’s like a sewing haiku… almost… I might get it engraved in a ring…?
I finished the seams first and chose to understitch the fly front instead of topstitching it. On the right, I used the overlocked edge to help with the narrow fold back.
I even did some hand basting!
Next, the waistband. I chose not to put myself through the misery of attempting to turn through a 20cm long, 1cm wide tube for the belt loops; I folded them in twice and edgestitched like I usually do. Then I had the brainwave to use my button gauge to measure out five equal beltloops.
I remembered to fold the corner at the front of the waistband to keep all the #rainbowseams on the inside…
I must say, I’m really happy with them. The size feels spot on. The pockets feel really classy. I’m LOVING the feel of the fabric, it’s comfy & soft. The legs have a good taper, without overdoing it. And, I’ve got STRIPE JOY written all over them!
The really good news is that even though I’m not yet half-way through making this suit, I am now at least fully covered! Next stop: I need to get one of those jackets.
(And after tidying up a corner of the living room…)
Notes to self:
- Take it slow with the jacket. Spend the time tracing & measuring first.
- Some smart linen pants would be nice out of this pattern…
- Do I need to buy a better matching thread before I carry on with the jacket?
- Plain shirt or pattern shirt or plain shirt with pattern accents…? Hmmm
Great work! I love the way you describe all the step and thoughts.
Thank you, I can’t help myself! 🙏
Great blog and what a great job on your vest and trousers! I would love to sew the seeds of love. *tears on the dance floor*
“With the LEFT LEG Inside Out – put the RIGHT LEG, Right Side Out, Inside the left” = Cirque du Soleil version of the Hokey-cokey?
😂 haha exactly!
Oh bless their little cottons …. so cute and amazing work on their projects. Must be so nice to be able to encourage creativity …*sighs*
Excellent stripe matching there! They look amazing as i suspected they would ;D
As to the sewing songs.. I can only think of two at the moment by Dolly Parton ~ Coat of Many Colours and the other is something like Gold Thread and Black Needles or something like that anyway … bizarrely they were on the radio the other day when I was on a long drive lol …. Or you could go with Needles and Pins by Smokie but that’s not about sewing 😛
Sooo… Jacket will be finished by Friday night then right Mr SuperSewer ?? 🙂
Haha, maybe not by Friday! But I’m ahead of schedule, thankfully!
Thanks for saying the stripe matching looks good, I’ve been staring at them so long I’m no longer objective – I think I’m getting stripe-blindness!
Yes, the girls are absolute poppets. I’m amazed we got any sewing done at all though as they also managed to sing me almost the entire score of ‘Hamilton’…
(Tears for Fears – ‘sowing the seeds of love’ – ok, wrong sewing, I know!)
Good lord! Tears for Fears takes me back to my teens! lol
OOooo So they will not only be on the stage singing and dancing (Tap of course) .. but they will be able to make their own costumes too 😉
That’s the plan! 🤩😂
Teens! Blimey, I suppose it was! 😱
It’s coming along great, and I’m sure your followers are pleased to hear that at least you won’t have to resort to taping an ‘Under Construction’ sign across something vital at the wedding…! I always love the rainbow thread too.
‘Uncle Boys’ is so cute–wonderful job by the ‘Children Nieces’.
That leg assembly haiku reminded me strongly of the hokeypokey, actually…
Haha, yes, I’ll leave the masking tape outfits to lady gaga!
… maybe it’s time there was a song about sewing?!
Maybe something like “You Broke My Heart So I Have To Stitch It Back Together”–that sounds too country and western–or “Baste This” as an electronic dancetune…?
🤣 definitely ‘baste this’ I think you’re onto something! 😂👍
I’m actually pretty excited about this imaginary song and your future imaginary choreography. But the wedding outfit must come first!
Yes, first things first… Finish the suit, THEN become a worldwide pop sensation! 😂👍
With the fantastic video and great wardrobe. Okay. Get cracking then!
Great job with the trousers looks really fabulous, so I’m told the one leg inside the other makes the trouser legs hang better for smart slacks. You obviously follow pattern instructions very well I usually manage to mess up at first. You have made great progress so look forward to the jacket.
Thank you! That’s an interesting fact… so many subtleties! And SO much to learn!
Here’s to the jacket! 👍🙏😊
These look fantastic! What is your fabric and where did you get it?
Thank you, it’s a cotton blend from Dave’s the drapers in Shepherd’s Bush Market, the linings from Abakhan 👍