Hello Sewists! It’s official, we in Britain are always talking about the weather!
I was a little previous with my recent Smart Summer Shorts make – I’d hoped the hot spell of weather would have lasted so I could wear them to the theatre last Monday. But I ended up wearing long trousers, tshirt, shirt, jumper, jacket, gloves & a scarf! – I love the unpredictable London weather… 🤔
(MrA & I saw ‘Chess’ at the London Coliseum- it was amazing. I hadn’t seen it for 20 years and it didn’t disappoint. It’s only on for 5 weeks apparently, so get a ticket if you can!)
It ended up a week of theatre as my brother in law surprised us with a trip to see Bat out of Hell the musical at the end of the week – it was BOILING, I got to wear my shorts! (The show was a bit mental, to be honest; I’m still not sure what it was all supposed to be about, but the big numbers were awesome and you couldn’t fault the talented casts dedication to the performance! It was nice to see a decent budget spent on a set for a change too!)
Anyway, my last Omer jacket has been a real success. A funny thing happened (… a few times in fact) … On three separate occasions when friends or family caught a glimpse of the label inside they all said;
‘Wow, you made this too…? I didn’t say anything because when I saw it I thought, Oh! He’s bought himself a jacket!’
How about that for a compliment!
So, once I’d floated down from cloud 9, I decided I’d make another. No lining this time, I was going to stick to the pattern… (or that’s what I thought…)
My fabric stash isn’t too big, but it’s getting too big for my small flat. (There were some vague plans that MrA & I might move house but those have been shelved for now. I must admit, we’re both happy living where we do, but after so many years in a one bedroom flat, who wouldn’t want a bit more space… or a dog?! The move would also have provided me a sewing room, but there’s no use crying over something you never had, and we’ve had a big clear-out, sort-out, tidy-up & decorated and feel like we’re in a new apartment anyway!) … so ‘stash-busting’ it is!
I had a few off cuts of wool from my Goldstream Peacoat and my Tweedy Bomber, some scraps of black wool felt and a sizeable cut of some weird upholstery fabric left over from some window-seat cushions I’d made. As there are 23 pattern pieces to the Omer jacket and most of them are quite small, I figured I should be able to squeeze one out of all these off cuts, left overs and scraps!
I got MrA involved as we chose where to put each fabric, I printed out the line drawing from the pattern and we started colouring it in… in the end we went linear with the fabrics, although we’d started at the polar opposite with a totally patchworky design.
(When I made the lining for my last Omer I noticed that most of the lines – especially on the sleeves – don’t add shape; so you could just tape it all together and put the seams where you like.)
I’m particularly pleased with the sleeve vents on this one, so let me show you how I did them…
(Start by marking the slit on the sleeve and facing. Sew the box and cut carefully through the middle and to the corners. Push the facing through to the wrong side and press.)
Now, I use a lot of those continuous zippers, you know, the ones you cut to length then have to wrestle the zip pull onto. I don’t really have a tip to share for these but this is my method (when you reach the last step you’ll understand why there are no photographs!)…
- Open the end of the zip by 1-1.5cm.
- Slide one then the other end of the zip teeth into the top of the zip pull.
- While holding on to both sides of the zip tape, grab the zip pull in your teeth and slide it down the zip.
It may not be pretty to watch, but it works (almost) every time!
Make sure you’ve got the zip the right way round and the right way up as you sew it in place under the sleeve opening. I did it in 3 stages; each side, then the top.
Now for the fun bit…
First, finish the edges and hem the bottom of the vent lining.
1. Position the lining face down matching the side of the facing.
2. Flip the sleeve fabric out of the way.
3. Turn it over and fold the sleeve out of the way.
4. Sew with a zipper foot as close as you can to the seam. Catching the facing, lining and zip tape.
5. Open the zip to pin the other side.
6. Flip it over and sew as before.
7. Fold the top down and sew the top of the lining/ facing/ zip.
Then the Tetris of putting the sleeves together…
They went to one side while I worked out what to do with the front zip. You see, the one I had was a bit too long, so I figured, if I made the collar in line with the front edge, I could zip it up all the way to the top. Easy, no? …. well… No! With that one little alteration I had to completely change the order of sewing the collar, zip and facing! No more instructions for me!
So I put the outer collar on first then basted the zip.
Check it lines up then prepare the flap. I had to extend it to meet the collar so I added a bit of black felt with a curve to the top and hemmed the bottom so it wouldn’t get caught when I sewed the facing on. After my sewing clips never arrived from eBay I ordered some more from another supplier and they really came in handy with all this chunky sewing.
Prepare the facing (I added a hanging loop and my label) and sew the under collar to the facing.
Pin it all to the main jacket, right sides together.
Sew up the sides, along the top and that little bit at the bottom before double turning the hem and topstitching.
The other amendment I made was switching the back tabs to the side seam and moving them up a bit. This puts it closer to my waist so I could put a 2nd snap in to make it more fitted.
I’m so happy with it. The fabrics are showerproof (perfect for the london summer!) and quite wind-proof (also perfect for a london summer!) and the wool panels give some breathe-ability (… also perfect… ah, you get the picture!)
Notes to self:
• That’s probably enough jackets for now.
• Get the right zip length & do the flap properly if there’s a next time!
• Now, where did I put my summery fabrics…?
Update; the La Maison Victor men’s size charts…
This i a really beautiful jacket. well done. I like both version you made, each has a very unique ‘vibe’.
thanks for this blog, it gave me lots of inspiration about sewing for myself.
I thought about trying out some of the mason victor patters. I can’t find a sizing chart though. Do you know their size range? Most mens patters unfortunately don’t come in small sizes like XS.
Hi, thank you! I’m so glad these jackets have inspired you to get sewing! 👍🙏
I’ve just updated the blog post with photos of the men’s sizing for you. It’s printed in the pullout that contains the patterns in the magazine. Hope that helps!
Good luck! 😊👍🙏
Thank you so much. I will get the patterns and start sewing 🙂
Awesome project. Great use of your scraps. Mine just end up in a huge plastic bin to never be found again.
One day you’ll find the perfect project for them! (… have you got the thread theory walker collection…?!) 👍🙏
You have had a such a great run of wonderful projects! I have to admit I’d love to know more about Bat Out Of Hell, since I am buddies/co-investor in a tiki bar in Hawaii (really) with Todd Rundgren, who produced and performed on the original album and who is responsible for the Steinman/Meatloaf album even seeing the light of day. I’ll have to go look up what the show is about–
Wow, that’s so cool! It’s a great show! And if you find out what it’s all about… please tell me! 😂😂
ahaha! Will do–
The best I found was this sort of mumble mumble: https://www.londontheatre.co.uk/show/bat-out-of-hell-the-musical Apparently last year it was so in demand they brought it back. I loved the first two albums, and have never played the third, although I have a cd of it. Todd insider info: when Meatloaf was unable to sing due to whatever issues, Jim Steinman, who wrote it all, would sing for him and not get credit on the albums.
Ooh I love a bit of insider gossip! 👍🙏👏😱
You look so studly in your new jacket. I continue to be impressed, inspired, and terrified by your progress!
I must remember to start putting my labels in my makes.
Don’t use your teeth, dude! O. M. G. No. Just no. You have pretty teeth.
Oh, finally — can we see the inside?
😅 thank you! I’ll go easy on the teeth, honest! It’s all overlocked (with rainbow seams, of course!) on the inside and topstitched down. I’ll get a pic & update 👍🙏😊
I also saw Chess inLondon about 20 years ago, and I’m disappointed it won’t be running when we are there this summer. Great job on the jacket(s).
I’m not sure what’s happening after the short london run… surely they’re not just going to pack it all up and put it away? … maybe there’s a tour…?
If you like it ‘old-school’ then 42nd Street might interest you? If you like it ‘rock’ try Bat out of Hell!
Fabulous..as usual. Love getting comments when someone finds out you made it yourself…makes my heart sing
Thank you! It’s the best compliment isn’t it! 👍🙏👏😊
Perfect use of scraps! And it does look store bought … and designer made! Thanks for explaining the zips!
Thank you! Mind your teeth if you try the zip method though… I don’t want to get sued!! 😂👍🙏😊
I absolutely love your fabric combos with it, its brilliant 🙌 You’re so clever and your blog is always a treat to read, I really enjoy you sharing your process 👍😁
Thank you so much 🙏 that’s such a lovely compliment 😊👍🙏
Another fantastic jacket! I think the way the weather is so changeable you’ll get so much wear out if it this year!
Thank you! I hope so 🤞👍🙏
Bravo à vous !! J’adore votre travail ! Je me suis remise à la couture une grande passion, et j’espère faire d’aussi belle choses que vous!! Bize du Sud de la France 😘
Merci beaucoup! J’espère que google translate ne me laisse pas tomber! bonne chance avec votre couture 👍🙏😊
Mercii beaucoup!! Je viens de créer mon blog ici. Voici le lien je serais heureuse que vous me suiviez 😁http://coutureorsewing.wordpress.com
Another fabulous jacket 😀 …. I really should try and get this magazine if I can to make more stuff for my boys..
As for the zips try this method and see if it works for you … or at least saves your teeth a bit lol
1. Pull about 1cm of zip open.
2. On one side only removed 3 or 4 of the zipper teeth.
3. Slide your zipper pull on the longer side first.
4. Use the point of your seam ripper to gently ease the shorter side into the pull.
5. Slowly pull… and (hopefully with a bit of a wiggle) hey presto your zip is complete.
Also when you buy your length of zipper tape up t all the pulls on in one go and just keep siding them up the tape as you cut off your required lengths of zip. that way all the faffing is done in one go and you only lose a few mm’s of zip 😀
Hope it helps
p.s. Have your filled that app………… lol 😉
Perfect, thank you, yes… put them all on at once, genius! 👏👍🙏
I’ll try your other suggestion too, although it seems much more grown-up! 😅
Definitely get a copy if you can, I’m sure your boys would love some of these patterns 👍👏🙏
You are ON FIRE with these jackets! And yes I totally understand what you mean about the weather, one day I wore a summer dress to the office and that same week I also wore my thickest jumper :/
I do really love this pattern, I might make one for the husband. Thanks for documenting the zip journey – v useful! And fab that it could use up scraps too!
Re Bat Out of Hell, I’ve seen it and thought it was bloody brilliant. Basically it was telling a story to link up all (most) of the songs off the album, plus a couple of Jim Steinman classics for good measure 🙂
Uber-condensed version is daughter wants to get together with local rebel, father doesn’t agree 😀
It’s all just Romeo & Juliet by another name! What’s that saying, there’s three stories… someone goes on a journey… a stranger comes to town … and the third one… 😅👍😂
Who doesn’t want to hear meatloaf sung by musical theatre pros backed by an orchestra?!?! (The ‘mum’ was AH-MAZ-ZING!)
You should definitely get that leather/ suede on with your Omer for the H’Beast! My colours didn’t go so left out the suede/ denim ..
Cool! I see what you mean about Tetris … but very effective.
Endless possibilities! 👍🙏
That is even better than the first version and like the mix of materials it comes over as very neat and well made so great job, you are set up for a while now with thsi type of jacket but they are very handy for cooler weather.
Thank you, yes, I’m so pleased with it, but that’s got to be me done for now! 👍😅🙏
Thanks for this. I wanted to put sleeve zips in a moto jacket I made last year, but I had no idea how to do it.
Thank you 🙏 this second one came out so much neater that the first! (Thankfully that was lined!) 👍🙏😊
This jacket is so amazing! Loving all the sewing tips too. Really have to try the teeth hold trick when my next zipper runs off 😉
Haha, thank you! Mind your teeth though! 😅👍🤞
I really enjoy the mixture of fabric pattern and texture. The sleeve details are terrific, fit of course is great. Very well executed. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Craig
First I must complement exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail. I do enjoy the mix of fabrics, something that I don’t think of often enough even when making shirts. This jacket came together so well very impressive, looks terrific on thanks for sharing your knowledge. Craig
Thank you! I’m the same, I have to keep remembering to mix it up a bit… stashbusting is good for that!