Well, we’ve had a lovely little heatwave in london, summer is definitely on the way… with that in mind, I thought I’d better make some shorts.
Let me tell you what inspired me: One of the last pairs of shop bought trousers I own is a beautiful pair of white Hermes slacks, they have been made exquisitely incorporating lots of interesting details… one of which is; the back waistband is made out of elastic! Now, before you start thinking of those two-for-the-price-of-one ‘comfort’ trousers advertised in the back pages of ‘Old Peoples Monthly’ throughout the 70’s and 80’s remember, these are Hermes trousers! The elastic is beautiful in both colour and quality. The back of the trousers is eased in imperceptibly giving just enough hold without squeezing or bunching up the fabric. They really are a classy pair of strides!
Difficult to wear though in my usual circles. They are much more suited to swanning through a 5* hotel reception… in corresponding designer loafers, no doubt. And did I mention that they’re WHITE??? (Not to sound ungrateful but, WHAT was he thinking?!) The last time I wore them was in Thailand, the time before that, Egypt. Sadly, now they are compressed into a vaccuum-bag in a loft in Amersham… How the mighty have fallen!
Still, I loved that elasticated waistband and wanted to try to pay homage to it in something I’d made. I had just enough fabric left over from a trouser and waistcoat set I’d made for a special occasion last year; It’s a worsted wool from Holland and Sherry with cashmere and silver mink (… I still haven’t looked that up…?) it feels gorgeous and is so nice to sew with. I picked it up last year at the Great British Sewing Bee Live event. (In related news, it’s exciting to hear that the TV show will be coming back on in the UK. I hope they do the live event again too…)
I didn’t have a fancy elastic, or at least an elastic fancy enough (or wide enough) to be on show with these shorts. But I did have some very nice cotton jersey ribbing that I’d picked up on my last trip to Goldhawk Road, and some of that nice thick Prym elastic to put inside it.
For the pattern I used my old faithful; Chino Pattern M – from my most used pattern book, Mens Clothes For All Seasons. I don’t mean to go on and on about this book, the main reason it’s so good for me is that everything seems to fit me pretty well from it. Although I’ve only really used a handful of patterns… Did I tell you I had it spiral bound at the copy-shop? It didn’t cost much (… maybe six quid?) and it’s made it so much easier to use as it now sits flat on the table. If you have a favourite book that you use a lot, I highly recommend getting it spiral bound.
I cut everything out for shorts, using a leftover piece of grey linen for the pocket bags… (this was turning into a real stashbuster). The only alteration I made was to cut two front waistbands from the wool and one back waistband from the jersey ribbing. I estimated the amount of negative ease needed for the back waistband (very scientifically) by laying it next to the back trouser pieces, giving it a bit of a stretch and guessing. I decided to cut the seam allowance off (so, 3cm shorter) then, the same with the elastic.
Check out this post if you want to read how these shorts are put together ‘by the book’ but here I thought I’d focus on the pockets and the waistband…
Alas the ‘Inspiration Trousers’ were incarcerated (as previously mentioned) and unavailable for reference. But I knew for certain there wouldn’t be any overlocking on the pocket bags!
Front Pockets;
I folded the seam allowance of the facing pieces and edgestitched them in place on the pocket bags, basting around the rest of the edges.
After sewing the pockets to the front trousers I understitch the seam allowance to the pocket facing to help keep it in place. Then, swing the pocket bags out so that you can reverse the fold at the centre bottom and sew the bag with the wrong sides together. I use 1,5cm seam allowance, so I sew the first time at 5mm, then turn the seam in, press and sew again at 1cm.
This photo from my Ottobre Jeans shows all the stages…
Back Pockets;
French seaming back pockets, now, that was new to me! Of course, it would have been easier to research it first, but I have this weird habit of researching things after instead. It’s not a particularly useful trait, but there it is. After a little head-scratching I decided on this…
Having sewn the back darts and the back pocket welt (I decided on only one back pocket, on the right) thankfully I remembered to put in the buttonhole at this point too..!
I had the back prepared and a separate pocket facing piece to attach so I lined up the bottom edge first and sewed it wrong sides together…
Then I rolled the shorts up and in so that I could pin and sew the side of the pocket…
With that done, I folded in the rest of the shorts…
… and made a little pocket-parcel…
It reminded me of the burrito yoke method, but looks more like a toasted sandwich! Anyway, flip the filling out and give it a good poke and a press…
Finish off with a 1cm stitch all around to seal in the raw edges. And there it is, my first french seamed back pocket…
Waistband:
I sewed in the fly at the front (with two beltloops basted in place) and finished the seat seam at the back. Then I stitched the front waistband pieces on at the waistline. To prepare the back band, I positioned the elastic in the fold of the jersey and secured it with a zigzag stitch near the top on the inside. I was winging it and didn’t take step by step shots, but you can see the zigzag stitch in the pics below…
Next I sewed up the side seams, including the (still ‘open’) waistband. I then overlocked the whole inside edge of the waistband, front to back, all the way around. I finished it off like any other trouser waistband, making the corners at the front opening then stitching-in-the-ditch from the front, catching the overlocked edge on the inside.
There’s not much else to report… the buttonhole went in smoothly (Praise be to the Old Gods and the New…) and I blind hemmed them on the machine to finish them off. The weather is hotting-up in London, so I know I’ll get to wear them soon, and hopefully a lot over the summer. They feel so comfortable, soft and cool. MrA & I have some theatre tickets booked this summer and it can get absolutely roasting hot in these old West-End theatres in the summer. These shorts are going to be perfect for dressing up while keeping cool. And if I really want to go for it I can totally spiv it up with the matching waistcoat!
I forgot to mention, I used the selvedge in the fly and facing…
I’d better iron them before I put them on!
As luck would have it, a sunny day coincided with one of my days off and I got to wear them straight away!
Happy sewing.
Notes to self:
- Take the front waistband round to the back by about 3-4cm for a more streamline look. (put it on last like normal in this case)
- Keep searching for that perfect patterned elastic!
- Get a tan.
- Please don’t stand on the benches.
I love these on you. They look like part of a suit that decided to run away and have fun!
Cute dog too, and I love the peacock and rainbow details–
Haha! That’s exactly what they are! Thank you! 😊👍
This was my first visit to your site how wonderful, your workmanship is beautiful and delightful reading. I’ve been sewing since age 12, started sewing after spending hours upon hours watching my Grandmother create beautiful clothing for her clients. Again so nice to see such wonderful blog I wish you much continued success. PS I spent quite a while pouring over the pages admiring your finished work even my husband took note.
Best Regards, Craig
Hi Craig, what a lovely compliment, thank you so much. How lucky to have had that time learning from your grandmother… YouTube has had to do that job for me these last few years!
Thanks again for reading 👍
Andrew 🙏
Fabulous! And I’m all for elasticated waists 🤣 I really, REALLY must start sewing trousers. There is a massive trouser-shaped hole in my skills… you make it look so easy so perhaps I should lay down a rule that I can sew nothing but trousers for a month 🤔 fab idea on the spiral binding too! 👍🏻
Thank you! This yo-yo-ing weather is a concern though!
You’ll be great at trousers, like anything, once you get a good fit they get a bit easier each time 🙏
Such great shorts. I am totally trying that waistband technique, it seems so sensible! Enjoy the summer, winter is coming here!
Thank you! Yes, give it a go, it’s really comfy! – although maybe not shorts with your winter on the way!
😊🙏👍
oh oh oh…. My local market stall had some random bits of fancy elastic… the sort you get on posh varsity jackets for the collar, cuffs and waistband… stripes and all. I shall have to ask her where she gets it from. Have you tried Walthamstow? There are some amazing haberdasheries there that may well have what you are looking for. The fabric is silly cheap too 😀
*Just this second had an email… GBSB Series 5 applications open TOMORROW* DO IT ….. he he he 😛
oh and great shorts too 🙂
Lainey
x
Yes please, ask her if you don’t mind! 🙏
I’ll have to make the trip to Walthamstow sometime soon!
Hmm… I’m undecided!!
Nothing to lose by filling in a form 😛
My mate applied for me without me knowing last season… got the shock of my
life when the called me and I swore! Totally talked my way out of it on that phone call 😀
Just fill the form in and see what happens…. More men need to come forward for these things … DO IT!! lol <3
I just ordered that Japanese Pattern Book. I love all the japanese pattern and craft books. They always have good picture layout on how to make the clothing. Looking forward to getting my copy. There is a german menwear pattern book that covers all the basics Männerkleidung nähen.
Your shorts came out nice. I like the burito method for doing the back pocket.
Over the past few years, for summer I have been wearing “golf wear”. The shirts are wonderful, easy to wash, breathable, uva proof. The shorts use a good elastic in the waist band and not like “the old men’s shorts” with a casing. The elastic is wonderful, soft, and provides all the room for movement and (over eating). The fabric used in golf wear is all moisture wicking. It is great fabric for travelling for me in particular since I can do my laundry in the hotel room hang to dry over nite and I have clean clothing to wear the next day. I need to source the supplies so I can make them myself.
That sounds like miracle fabric! Let me know if you find out what it’s called!
I hope you like the book, I keep going on about it but I keep doing the same 4 patterns!
👍🙏
Do a search on dry fit 4 way stretch fabric or moisture wicking fabric. Most of these sport tech fabrics are polyester with lycra, the polyester is treated so that it is breathable, keeps you cool, sweat drys quickly and leaves your skin, you need to wash in cool to warm water with baking soda/borax, detergent and a wee bit of bleach. These fabrics over time can hold odor if not washed correctly. I love these kind of sports fabrics since they are designed for active people, movement and above all comfort. You could move to Ghana live in these clothes, and stay dry and cool.
Thank you, I’ll definitely bear it in mind when I need that all-terrain outfit 👍
Another great make. Isn’t it fab news about the sewing bee. I thoroughly enjoyed the live show last September in London… hope they re instate that too
First, great idea with the book binding (note to self).
Second, why are you not going to be on Sewing Bee? (I assume from your comment you aren’t.)
Third, another great post. I find the detail you bring so useful and informative.
Fourth, thank you for your continuing inspiration.
Thank you so much for your kind comments, you’re doing my confidence the world of good!
I don’t think applications are open yet for the bee… I’m undecided though anyway…
thanks again for the boost 👍🙏