After all the trouble myself – and a lot of other sewists – went to to get the ‘La Maison Victor: Men’s Special’ edition, it’s great to see there is now a UK version not only available – but available in my local newsagent!
Even though I could only get the Menswear Special in French, I’m glad to have it. Look at all these patterns!
… excuse the coffee stain…!
Each regular issue has a selection of patterns for women and children and so far only one men’s pattern each.
I haven’t worn pleated trousers since the 80’s but I do like the look of the Greg chinos. Maybe a summer pair out of linen… I’ve got some great summer shoes that I need better trousers to wear with. The Omer jacket looks incredible, I love the biker-jacket vibes – it has so many pieces though! I’ll have to work my way up to that. I’ve made the Jeff pants already; hopefully they’ll come into their own when the summer hits London.
I was thinking of the summer while I was fabric shopping at the Knitting & Stitching Show recently and bought some jersey from GirlCharlee to make tshirts.
I’d already decided on the La Maison Victor Issac TShirt, so rifled through my stash for complimentary/ contrasting fabrics… and… turned up empty handed! The anchor fabric is really light and slinky (I just know it’s going to cling to my stomach and make me look like I have man-boobs but I really liked the pattern and it felt so nice I had to buy it) and none of my scraps have the same feel, so I re-traced the front and the back as one piece each (removing the yokes). I added 1.5cm seams and 3cm hems as they’re not included in the pattern.
I didn’t take a lot of pictures as I made the first one. There didn’t seem much point as I’d simplified the pattern. The fabric was slippery to handle but I managed without using the walking foot. What I did do was use spray starch on the pocket and the hems and that really helped to stop things from shifting around.
It’s even a bit clingy on Manny!
As I anticipated, a bit clingy but it feels great. I think it’s a bit long though. When I cut out the next one I cut 3cm off (taking it back to the drafted length – with no seam technically included although I still folded 3cm).
For my next iteration I wanted to use up the jersey leftovers that I didn’t think paired with the first one. I found lots of pieces but none of them big enough to cut an entire front or back out of… even with the yoke. So I added another design line; 10cm or so below the armpit diagonally down to about 10cm or so from the centre front hem. Making the front and back panels shorter meant that I could fit them out of my fabric.
- Sleeves & neckband: Grey
- Yokes: White
- Front: Navy/White stripe
- Back: White
- Bottom: Red
I wasn’t really sure what I’d let myself in for with the triangle point. It needed a bit more precision than I was willing to give it at the time, but I think I pulled it off.
Out of the three I’ve made so far this one has had the most wear (mainly because it is the least summer-specific of the bunch, but I’m obviously not put off by that pucker!).
Finally, I thought I’d better make one like the pattern suggested. It was what drew me to the pattern in the first place! For this I used my most summery selection from Girlcharlee: the palm trees. I had some grey and red scraps left but decided on simple white yokes to contrast the patterned fabric.
If you want to know how I made the tshirt (… it’s only a bit different from the instructions) keep reading, or skip to the money-shot if you prefer…! ⬇️⬇️⬇️
- Needle: Jersey 70
- Thread: All purpose polyester
- Stitch: Zigzag 1.5 x 1.5
- Seams: Three thread overlock
- Tricks: Spray starch
I had to stitch up the body pieces to the yokes first. Sewn and overlocked, I pressed the seams downwards so my #rainbowseams wouldn’t show through the white fabric.
I starched the pocket and matched the stripes but not the trees…
After sewing the shoulder seams I basted the neck band in; zig zagged then overlocked. Next I switched to the twin needle and topstitched my favourite neckline to date…!
… just the faintest hint of #rainbowseams showing through!
While I had the twin needle out I hemmed the sleeves before putting them in. Risky business, I know, but I had the stripes to follow, keeping things level.
The sleeves got sewn in with the same zigzag as the neckline and finished on the overlocker. No stripes to match here thanks to the plain yoke… but the side seams were another story! I carefully lined up the stripes and put a pin in each and every one of them.
And it worked!
The shorter hem is a much better length on me and I love the contrast of the yoke against the neck/ sleeves/ body.
Now I’ve got the tshirts I just need the summer!
Happy Sewing.
Notes to self;
- Keep an eye out for scraps that will go together for more Issacs.
- More tshirt designs!
- I should start thinking about piecing one of my long sleeve patterns. Or lengthening the sleeves of this.
I really like all your t-shirts. You are the master! I noticed the comment about the circular sock knitting machine (known as a cranker). I have one of these and they are not easy to use (I restored mine and they are magical things, but have a mind of their own too). Save up and buy the coverstitch, it will serve you much better. One of the things I do know about twin needling is to have your upper threads coming off the spool in different directions, my mother taught me this and it always seemed to help.
Cranker! What a great name! – yes, I think I’ll leave the sock knitting to mum while I save up for the coverstitch!
Thanks for the tip with the threads, I’ll give it a go.
👍🙏
Good thinking!
Very nice! I’m still not at the point that I feel I have enough time to start making T-shirts. I have about 50 or so that need to be worn out before I *need* them, so I can get by without making them and still adhere to not buying any clothes (socks is another manner, and I’ve lately been eyeballing circular knitting machines).
With the dual-needle stitch, I noticed that you have the tension of you main thread way down. So the bobbin thread is almost straight. Doesn’t that impede the stretch?
Aah, I get problems with my twin needle sewing sometimes… is that the answer…? I need to tighten the top tension? … thank you, I’ll give it a go: it’s been ok on tshirts so far but not on the undies where more stretch is needed. 👍
… a machine that knits socks?!?!?? Amazing!!! I want one!!!!
Regarding the tshirts, I’ve only got about 5 bought ones left to wear out! I love the feeling of everything I wear being made by me, no matter how banal a garment!
Thanks for the tips 🙏👍
Instead of tightening the top thread tension, you need to loosen the bobbin thread tension. Probably with a tiny screw somewhere on the bobbin holder. Make sure you note how many half/quarter turns you adjust it, so you can put it back the way you had it. You don’t want to increase the top tension, or your stitches will be too tight, and the two lines of top stitches will be pulled towards each other and form a ridge.
Knitting a sock: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cGKZm2esTY
And before you get too enthusiastic, those are really expensive machines.
That’s what I was afraid of… I need to check (find!) the manual as I’m not sure I can get to my bobbin tension that easily… maybe I’ll save up for a coverstitch instead of the magic sock maker!!
I personally like your tropical and nautical tees. The twin needle top stitching is well done. I think if you go all out and purchase a baby lock top end machine, you will wonder why you never used a cover stitch machine before. This particular post always brings up the question for me. The cost and effort/time to make a tee shirt or purchase rtw. I generally find for tees, i purchase them since i mainly stick to white, navy, black or taupe. Boring I know but it works for me. I have always been of the opinion that sewing, for me in particular is creating what I refer to is runway knock off collections for myself. In this way I spend the time in creating runway designer clothing looks that would normally cost me 100’s/1000’s of dollars to purchase. My rule use to be the same with shirts but over time I have started making my own, and there is nothing like a well fitting shirt that is specially built/designed to fit your body. … Again great job.
Hi, thank you. I’m really looking forward to getting a bit of nautical theme on this summer, those tshirts will get plenty of wear!
I have dreams of owning a coverstitch machine! Sadly it’ll have to wait for the mean time! (£££)
I totally get what you’re saying, but for me it’s more about knowing that I’ve made the item. Not even because it’s one off or stand out particularly, just that I’ve made it…! That’s where I get my kicks!
That said, I’d love the opportunity to make some real stand out pieces… but for now I feel so much like I’m still learning… still heading for that 100% hand made wardrobe… one tshirt at a time!
All the best 👍🙏
I love the palm tree pocket seemingly slapped on in a way that looks insouciant–very nice, with the lines matched well elsewhere.
Pleated trousers! I used to wear them when they actually suited me! The pattern shown here looks very low-slung for what I remember, almost as if they left off the waist band of the ye-olde style, but that must be a modern styling detail. I’m glad you’re making fun things and have access to patterns you like.
All these patterns were up scaled from their children’s patterns, I think that’s why the artwork looks slightly disproportionate!
I’m kind of concerned/ intrigued by the pleated trousers… I guess there’s only one way to find out!
👍🙏🤞
Give it a go! Make it fun to dance in! Then we can see it in videos too–remember we were going to write some hit and do a video seen by billions…? This could be the inspiration!
😂 yes… it might take a bit more than pleated trousers to get to get to the top of the charts though … 🤔… but maybe not…?! 🤣😂👍🙏👏
Maybe it’s not what you, it’s the way that you do it…?
Think the abstract is my favorite .. and a great scrap buster to boot!
Those patterns are fab! That biker style jacket is perfect for my eldest.. makes me wish I had bothered to seek out that magazine now! DOH!
Nice work as usual …carry on like this and you’ll be saving up for Coverstitch machine next! Trust me you won’t be sorry to own one ;D
Thanks. I’m looking forward to trying out some more scrap busting shapes!
…. a coverstitch machine… oooh! … one day… one day…! 👍🙏🤞😊
Love the neckline detail. Another excellent and inspirational blog post!
Thank you! 👍🙏
Another excellent blog post!
Thanks Matt 👍😊🙏